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Celery has been used in Europe since classical times and probably back into prehistory. The name derives from an ancient Greek word meaning “parsley,” and it’s true that the shape of the leaves and in some varieties the flavour are similar.
It has always had medicinal as well as culinary uses, which is unsurprising, though its only proven efficacy in modern medicine is that it reduces blood pressure and this addresses hypertension.
It’s rare for it to be given the starring role in a meal, but in this recipe its rather bitter flavour is balanced by the relative sweetness of the leeks, walnuts and wine as well as by the cream.
I like this served with just a simple salad, as the breadcrumbs make bulking out with such foods as potatoes, rice or pasta unnecessary.
Ingredients
1 head of celery, trimmed and finely sliced
2 large leeks, white parts only, chopped small
110g/4 oz wholemeal breadcrumbs
55g/2oz walnuts, chopped
55g/2oz butter
4 tbsp dry white wine
25cl/9fl.oz vegetable stock
10cl/3½ fl.oz single cream
25g crumbly cheese, broken up
Salt and pepper
What to do
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/mark 6.
Melt half the butter in a large frying pan, then add the celery and leeks.
Add salt, cover with a lid and cook over a moderate heat for 30 mins, stirring from time to time.
In a separate pan, melt the other half of the butter and add the breadcrumbs and walnuts.
Stir vigorously over a high heat until the bread and nuts give off a toasty scent. Take care not to let them burn. Set aside until you’re ready to sprinkle them on the celery-leek mixture.
When the celery and leeks are quite soft, turn the heat to high and add the stock and wine.
Reduce the liquid by half, stirring vigorously and frequently, then add the cream, salt and pepper and continue to cook to reduce the liquid once more. When you have a fairly thick sauce, pour the lot into an ovenproof dish.
Mix the cheese into the breadcrumb mixture and cover the celery-leek mix. Bake in the oven for 20 minutes.
Leave to cool for a few minutes before serving.
